THE RIGHT ROD FOR THE JOB
By Christie Thomas

Have you ever stood in front of the rod section of the bass tackle shop and thought to yourself, “Help, where do I start?” I have a wide variety of rods hanging in the garage, unused, because I did not have enough knowledge about rods when I started out. I did not know what I really needed and I made the mistake of buying cheaper inferior quality rods to start out with.

There are plenty of fishing rods available on the market that can be used for bass fishing but not knowing enough about the rods could mean that we are actually fishing with a rod that could hamper our efforts instead of assisting us. If a rod is too stiff, too soft or too heavy we could find our bass fishing inadequate and uncomfortable.

There are five principal artificial lures used for bass fishing; worms and jigs, spinnerbaits, crankbaits, floating or diving plugs and surface lures. With a good rod, one that has guts and sensitivity, you could effectively fish worms and jigs but for the others you would need a gutsy rod with a softer tip action to produce effective lure motion. If you used a soft-tipped or slow-actioned rod for worm fishing you would severely handicap yourself. It takes a rod with ‘backbone’ to set the hook as well as feel the action of the lure simultaneously. But at the same time, a rod that is too soft or too limber might mean that you could miss, or not even feel, many strikes when fishing spinnerbait, crankbait, or other plugs. If you switch to a stiffer, medium-action rod you will feel the difference and begin to detect those soft strikes you could have been missing before. A rod does not need to be as stiff as a pole to work for bass fishing. A rod that is too stiff is difficult to cast and not sensitive enough to feel the lure action.

When you look at a rod in the shop, look for its specifications, normally just above the reel-seat, to give you a better understanding of the rod’s characteristics There is a lot of information about that specific rod if you know how to read it and have an understanding of how the rod’s action and power works. A typical rod will show CV-60MHB LENGTH 6’0” LINE WT. 10-17 lbs. LURE WT. 1/4-3/4 oz. After explaining a bit more about action, power, length, etc. I will show you what each symbol stands for so that next time you look at a rod you will understand a bit more about that specific rod.

How important is the composition of my rod?

Many rod manufacturers have found that a combination of fibreglass and graphite has emerged as the most workable material for rods these days. Beware though when buying ultra-cheap ‘graphite’ rods. These rods usually do not contain enough graphite to gain the advantages of a proper graphite rod. Rod design has definitely benefited from graphite’s strength and lightness and fortunately for us bass anglers, extra sensitivity in the rod comes with the package. Today’s best general-purpose 5 1-foot graphite rod weighs considerably less than yesterday’s ultra-light fibreglass rod yet is gutsy enough to still drive a worm-hook home.

The best graphite rods are strong, sensitive and light. But they are also fragile and will not stand up to continuous abuse. Knocking them against the boat, dropping other rods and reels on them and even minor mishandling, such as other rods chafing against them, could do more harm to a graphite rod than to fibreglass rods. Graphite rods can break easily, but unlikely whilst playing a fish. They could break during the cast, trying to undo a snagged lure or trying to swing the fish up into the boat – probably as a result of a crack in the sidewall of the rod. This means you can confidently apply maximum pressure to the fish whilst playing it but you cannot repeatedly bang it against the side of the boat or jab it into the corner of the rod locker.

How do I know what grade of graphite rod to buy?

This is a difficult choice to make if you are unsure of your fishing needs. Rods built out of a composite of graphite and fibreglass, or other materials, are generally cheaper than a higher grade of graphite. Rods that are all or mostly graphite are lighter than those of composite and/or fibreglass and generally stiffer. Higher grade graphite rods are definitely worth the extra cost when considering the added sensitivity for detecting a strike or feeling the movement of the lure. When considering your needs and budget it helps to know that graphite rods are definitely an asset in worm and jig fishing, they are of marginal value when surface fishing and of some value when crankbait and spinnerbait fishing. In all cases, they are beneficial for hook-setting.

Action

Action is term generally used to describe a rods ‘backbone’. Many novice bass anglers make the mistake of selecting a rod with too little backbone. A fast-action rod works well in most conditions because only the upper 1/4 to 1/3 of the rod flexes to make the cast. The rest of the rod is stiff to ensure good hook-setting power and control over the fish. Even when using a light-action rod with light line and lures you still need stiffness in the rod’s butt.

How do I test a rod’s action?

There are about 4 different actions used to describe a rod’s backbone, ultra-fast, fast, medium and slow. To test a rod’s action it is best to thread line through the eyes, and then hold the rod by the butt and the end of the line (about 1/2 the rod’s length past the last eye). Now pull down on the line and observe the bend in the rod. If only the tip flexes you have ULTRA-FAST action, if the top 1/3 of the rod flexes it is FAST action, if the top 1/2 of the rod flexes most it is a MEDIUM action and if the entire rod flexes equally you have a SLOW action rod.

Power

Many rod manufacturers list the power of their rods as ultra-light, light, medium, medium-heavy and heavy. The power of a rod is usually indicated on the butt section of the rod, where the manufacturer also recommends lure weight and line test. Avoid using lures that do not fall within the recommendations on the rod otherwise the rod’s performance will suffer.

How long should my rod be?

Several years agothe standard equipment for bass anglers would have been a 5 1/2 to 6-foot baitcasting rod with a pistol-grip. This kind of rod is still excellent for pinpoint, close-quarter casting, but in the last couple of years many anglers have added longer rods to their arsenals. The introduction of the flippin’ rod played a major role in this tendency because many anglers soon learnt that this 7 1/2 foot rod had no equal in wrestling bass out of dense cover. The length allows you to flip plastic worms and jigs into tiny openings on a short line, and to haul bass forcefully out of the thick cover.

With this knowledge, anglers started experimenting with rods of different lengths and discovered that you could cast much further with a longer rod. They also delivered a much more powerful hook-set when fishing with texas-rigged worms and weedless jigs, and when the rod tip was pushed down into the water, could force deep-diving crankbaits to dive even deeper. However, the heavy, stiff flipping rods proved to be a bit too cumbersome for accurate casting so the rod manufacturers started out on their quest to build specialized long bass rods to be used in all fishing situations imaginable. Rods for crankbaits, spinnerbaits, worm fishing, etc.; many designed and/or endorsed by famous American pro anglers, are available on the market today and without adequate knowledge it is tough to decide which would be best for you.

Obviously size and stature will also make a difference when selecting the most comfortable length rod. An average sized man might find it comfortable twitching a 6-foot topwater rod whereas I find a shorter 5 1/2-foot rod more comfortable. The same goes for a pitching rod, most men prefer a 7 to a 7 1/2-foot rod but with my smaller build a 6 1/2-foot pitching rod suits me better. My Carolina-rig rod, however, is a 7-foot rod which gives me greater casting distance and because it is a graphite rod, is much lighter than a standard composite rod which would definitely be too heavy for me in the same length.

Most of these specialized rods generally measure from 6 1/2 to 7-feet in length, with the rod blank running through double handles for extra strength and sensitivity. The double grip also allows for powerful two-handed casts and can be propped against your stomach or forearm for more leverage when setting the hook and playing the fish.

What are important items to look for in the construction of a rod?

The construction of the rod blanks, composition, and of the rod itself – guides, wraps and the handle, are very important when it comes to selecting a rod. We have already discussed the composition of the blanks so it remains to discuss the other items on the rod which completes the construction.

Grips have significantly changed through the years in the tendency to create two-handed or ‘trigger’-grips on casting rods instead of the traditional pistol grips. Two-handed grips allow for powerful two-handed casts and greater leverage for the hookset. Long handles also ease wrist strain for anglers who use crankbaits or big-bladed spinnerbaits that pull hard. If you want a rod with maximum sensitivity, be sure the handle or reel-seat incorporates graphite or exposes a section of the rod so that you can lay a finger right on the blank when fishing. Pistol-grip rods still play an important role in bass fishing, especially whilst topwater fishing, where the flick of a wrist gives a topwater plug action, such as ‘walking-the-dog’ with a Zara Spook. As for the grip material, both cork and foam do an excellent job although many of the pros prefer cork. The best guides are made from silicone carbide or aluminium oxide. Double foot guides give the rod more backbone, whereas single foot guides let the rod flex more freely.

Now that you, hopefully, have a better understanding of all the components that make up a bass rod, I would like to get back to each rod’s specifications and clarify them for you. Next time you have a look at a rod; look for its specifications, generally situated just above the reel-seat. CV-60MHB LENGTH 6’0” LINE WT. 10-17 lbs. LURE WT. 1 - 3 oz. could be what you might see on an average bass rod.

CV-60 Manufacturers code
MHB Medium heavy blank (action)
LENGTH 6’0” Rod’s length - 6.0 foot
LINE WT. Manufacturers recommendation for line test
LURE WT. Manufacturers recommendation for lure weight

Which are the most common outfits an active bass angler will strap on his boat deck?

The following seven outfits are rigs commonly used by active bass anglers across the country. For the serious tournament angler, all these outfits, or ones similar to these, come into play many times throughout the course of a season. Some anglers may require more or fewer rods than these, depending on their own specific needs. An experienced and/or informed angler should be able to work out which outfit would work best for them in each situation.

Usually a 7 1-foot heavy action rod with a baitcasting reel filled with 14- to 25-pound test line. Used for fishing plastic worms and jigs in and around heavy cover. Approach the cover stealthily when employing the flippin’ method because you have to position your boat within 20 foot of the cover, and inadvertently the bass you are targeting.

Generally 7-foot with a double handle for long casts. Not as stiff as a flippin’ rod but still requires backbone so a medium to a medium-heavy, depending on personal preference, rod will do. You might want to match this rod with a large high-speed baitcasting reel filled with line ranging from 10- to 15-pound test. Use this outfit mainly for making long casts with medium to large crankbaits. You can increase the diving depth of your crankbait by pushing the rod tip deep into the water. This outfit can also be used with big spinnerbaits and other lures when long casts are necessary.

When you need to cover a lot of water quickly, for example to locate feeding fish scattered across an extensive flat, a 6 1/2- or 7-foot casting rod with plenty of backbone but a fast tip is ideal. Combine this with a high-speed baitcasting reel filled with 14- to 17-pound test line, rigged with a spinnerbait or lipless crankbait, for an effective outfit. Specialised crankbait rods are usually longer than worm rods, for greater casting distance, and have a two-handed grip. Their action is slower throughout the rod, with a slightly faster tip to give a final zing to a crankbait. Tip flexibility improves hook-ups and reduces escapes when bass leap and shake, trying to escape the offending lure.

The basic outfit for casting texas-rigged worms and/or jig and trailer combinations would be a 61 -foot, double-handled, medium-heavy baitcasting rod with a lightweight, high-speed reel. You can use 12- to 20-pound test line, depending on the thickness of the cover you’re fishing. This outfit is easy to cast all day and the rod has the backbone for penetrating hook sets.

For close, accurate casting with spinnerbaits, crankbaits, topwater plugs and other lures, use two 5 1-foot pistol-gripped baitcasting rods, one medium action and the other medium heavy. Choose a rod that best matches the size of the lure you’re casting and match these rods with lightweight bait-casting reels filled with 12- to 17-pound test. For peak efficiency and close range accuracy with these rods, it is hard to beat the side arm cast. The low rod position keeps the lure close to the water throughout the cast, which results in a softer lure entry and allows you to shoot your lures under overhanging branches and other cover.

When fishing gets tough bass sometimes prefer small finesse plastic worms with light sinkers, and smaller profiled, light lures which are difficult to cast accurately with bait-casting tackle. Under these circumstances use a very stiff, medium-heavy spinning outfit and 10-pound test line. This outfit easily handles the light lures whilst still providing enough backbone to drive the hook home. It is also ideal for skipping a lure over the water surface like a stone. This kind of presentation is generally used when you need to get your lures to bass under boat docks and other cover that is extremely difficult to penetrate using regular casting methods.

A medium-action 6-foot spinning outfit handles lines from 6- to 10-pound test very well. This kind of outfit is used with light lures that do not require heavy hooksets, such as small topwater minnows, light jigs with exposed hooks, and any lightweight lure with treble hooks.

Most of the rods and reels appropriate for general bass fishing are usually top of the line. They cost more than the bottom- and mid-series equipment, but are made of better material and better components. Price is not always an indication of quality though, so shop wisely and be aware that the bass-tackle market is competitive and trendy and that a higher premium is sought for tackle that is, for whatever reason, currently in vogue.

If you buy good equipment and take care of it, it should last. Many anglers fish successfully with good rods and reels acquired years ago. Of course, if you fish hard every day, you will wear your tackle out, but few anglers do.

Always remember though, knowledge remains the key to fishing success. Equipment alone, therefore, can never be the key. You cannot buy fishing success by buying expensive equipment. Quality tackle is no substitute for angling savvy, but it will help your fishing by brightening your outlook and bolstering your confidence.

Article reproduced with permission from Stywe Lyne/Tight Lines Magazine.
Photos by Christie Thomas. All rights reserved.