BASS TACKLE
(Part 1)
By Christie Thomas

When I started bass fishing all I knew was that I would need a ‘bass’ rod & reel and a couple of lures to practice this sport. I thought I was managing pretty OK until a family member bragged about a trophy bass that had been caught on a worm. So innocent was I to bass lures that I thought he was talking about earthworms. OK, so now I know you can catch bass on plastic worms, I am progressing in my quest of the little green fish. A couple of months later I knew a boat would definitely be an added advantage to the sport and I started looking in the Junk Mail for something small and affordable. When I finally found something that sounded cheap enough I made an appointment with the owner to view the boat. This meeting was ultimately the start of my competitive bass quest but also when the confusion first hit me.

The owner of the above boat happened to be a member of East Rand Bassmasters at the time and on his way to represent Central Gauteng at the nationals that same year. I was impressed to say the least. We sat down for a cup of coffee and he started showing us some of his fishing tackle, rods and reels, etc. My husband and I ended up leaving several hours later. What I did not understand though, was why would he need so many rods? He talked about rods with different ‘actions’ and reels with different gear ratios. What on earth did he mean?

It has taken me several seasons to come to grips with all the terminology and to start understanding that rods have different actions to accommodate different types of lures and that reels have different gear ratios so that you are able to retrieve these different lures at their optimum speed. All this information is readily available in different literature and if you take the time and effort you will find it but this takes time and you usually only start searching when you have already made several unwise and expensive choices when purchasing rods and reels.

When starting out it is wiser to purchase a combination rod and reel most suited to your purpose and to attempt to buy the best quality that you can afford. If I had known this when I started out I would not have 10 – 15 rods hanging in the garage because they have been replaced with more expensive, better quality rods better suited to their purpose. My objective is to share this information with you to help you make an informed decision when next you need to purchase some bass tackle and hopefully help you save money in the long run.

How many bass outfits do I need?

The knowledgeable bass anglers selects a rod for a specific fishing situation pretty much the same as a golfer would select a particular club determined by the shot he needs to make. It is common to see bass anglers on their boats with several rods strapped down on the deck, each rod with a different lure tied on. When you start out you do not have to go out and purchase eight rod/reel combinations to be a ‘bass angler’ but you should try to purchase one or two rods that will be best to handle the most common fishing conditions you would encounter on the waters you most often fish.

REELS

Baitcasting Reels

Baitcasting reels are the reels most commonly known amongst novice anglers as ‘bass reels’. Although not the only reels used for bass angling they are the most popular and most commonly used, mainly because of their great casting accuracy.

How do I cast with a baitcaster?
Your thumb rests directly on the spool and is used to slow and stop the flight of the lure much as you use the brakes on a car to stop its movement. Skilled anglers can make a hard, low-trajectory cast and slow down the lure at the last instant so that it enters the water softly and precisely at the target intended. Baitcasting requires a higher level of skill than spinning or spin-casting tackle does, but with dedication and practice you could soon be enjoying the advantages a baitcasting reel gives you. To get the most out of bait-casting you need to learn to rely on your thumb to control your cast. Use anti-backlash devices on low or medium settings, depending on the lure and wind conditions. Many pro’s often remove the magnetic weights in their reels and set their reels on zero but don’t try this unless you are 100% comfortable casting your reel. Backlashes will always occur, even to pro’s, especially when casting into the wind but the more you cast the easier and more natural it feels.

Disadvantages
A longstanding problem with baitcasters is the backlash, sometimes forming impossible tangles of line that waste precious time unpicking and/or money when you end up having to cut the line off the reel to get to the bottom of the crow’s nest. However, with all the new technology, reel manufacturers have devised mechanical, centrifugal and magnetic anti-backlash mechanisms in an attempt to make baitcasting reels more user-friendly. With these mechanisms you can increase the settings on the reel to virtually eliminate backlashes but unfortunately there are disadvantages in setting your reel too high. High settings reduce your casting distance and prevent the fine touch which allows optimum lure control and accuracy.

Baitcasters, line and lures
Baitcasting reels are very easy on line because the line flows straight onto the spool whereas spinning and spin-casting reels twist the line around a bail or pin causing the line to twist and kink. Baitcasting reels work best with line of 12-pound test and higher which make them unbeatable for fishing in and around cover. They perform best with lures weighing 1 oz. or more. Lighter lures are difficult to cast with baitcasters.

Which gear-ratio is best?
Most baitcasting reels have ball bearings which support the spool shafts and assist in smoother casting and greater durability of the reel. A fast gear ratio, something around 5:1, works best for most bass fishing methods. Slower gear ratios sacrifice speed for more power. The best way to explain how the ratios work is to look at the numbers indicated on the reel. For example, 5:1, shows that it takes one crank of the handle to turn the spool five times. Generally a faster gear-ratio reel is used for worm and jig fishing when you need speed to bring the fish out of heavy cover quickly or to reel in excessive slack in the line when fishing deep. Slower gear ratios are mostly used when fishing certain crankbaits, spinnerbaits and stickbaits where a slower retrieve is favoured.

Spin-casting Reels

Spin-casting reels cost less than baitcasting reels and are the easiest of all reels to use. It has a push-button line release which is easily mastered resulting in a beginner spending more time fishing than learning how to cast. This is a good introductory reel for budding bass anglers, kids and adults alike.

Disadvantages
Spin-casting reels do not allow for the pinpoint accuracy of baitcasting reels and are not as durable either. They are also prone to causing line twist.

Spinning Reels

Most bass anglers reserve spinning reels for light line and small lightweight lures because the line flows off the spool with little resistance. It provides more distance and better accuracy with lures weighing 1 oz. and less and does a better job of handling light line of 10 lbs test and lighter.

Long ago, spinning reels were very heavy and bulky but thanks to the use of graphite and other new materials spinning reels are lighter than ever with added sensitivity.

Gear-ratios
One similarity between spinning reels and baitcasting reels is the fact that they both can include ball bearings in their make up. Spinning reel gear ratios range from about 3.2:1 (3.2 turns of the spool to 1 turn of the handle) to about 5.4:1. The higher the ratio the faster the reel will gobble up line as you turn the handle. Ball bearings improve the smoothness and increase the life of the reel, and are definitely worth the extra cost when buying a new reel.

Spinning Reels and line
Some reels are built so that you can use a variety of lines with the same reel by simply replacing the snap-off spools. The conventional drag adjustment, located on the top of the spool, works well but will prohibit the use of a snap-off spool. Because of this many of the newer model reels now have their drags and drag-adjustment knobs at the back of the reel, where it is also easier to adjust the drag whilst fighting a fish. The roller guide on the bail is a critical point of stress. Reels with large line rollers will abuse your line less, especially if the rollers are made of aluminium oxide or some other super-hard material.

Disadvantages
The only major disadvantage of using a spinning reel is the line twist caused by the line retrieval system. The twists and kinks weaken the line resulting in lost fish. There is a general misconception that letting the line out behind the boat to ‘untwist’ it or re-spooling it back-to-front will solve the problem. Unfortunately the best way to prevent lost fish is to regularly check and replace your line on a spinning reel.

LINE

There are so many different brands and types of line on the market that one is easily confused into not knowing what to buy. Novice anglers commonly buy a quality rod and reel but then try to save money by purchasing cheap line. Poor quality line can hamper your casting distance and accuracy and will not last as long as better quality line on the market. YOUR LINE IS THE MOST IMPORTANT LINK BETWEEN YOU AND THE BASS!! Buying cheap line is false economy.

What kind of line should I use?
Almost all bass fishermen use nylon monofilament line. Try to use the lightest mono practical for the conditions you are fishing. Light line casts better, allows more lure action and is less visible to fish. One disadvantage of monofilament is the amount of stretch during the hook-set. Some expert anglers prefer to use the new thin-diameter braided or fused ‘super-lines’ in certain fishing situations such as deep water or extra thick cover. These lines are incredibly strong, super sensitive and have no stretch. An easy guide is to use abrasion-resistant mono or one of the ‘super-lines’ when fishing around rocks, weeds, timber or brush. Use soft, limp mono when fishing in unobstructed water.

Medium-power, general-purpose baitcasting gear is usually filled with 10 to 17-pound line and heavy baitcasting gear used in dense cover, 20 to 30-pound line. Light spinning gear requires 6 to 8-pound line and medium spinning gear, 8 to 12-pound line.

What colour fishing line should I use?
Different situations call for different coloured line. Whilst bass fishing, especially when using worm and jig, it is extremely important to watch your line at all times. This is why many bass anglers like to use high-visibility fluorescent line, it is easy to see above the water and slightly less visible below the water. But what is easy for fishermen to see is also easy for bass to see, especially in clear water. It is preferable to use fluorescent line for murky, muddy water and very low-light conditions. Clear water calls for thin-diameter lines in subtle colours – clear, grey or green. The most ‘visible’ lines are fluorescent or ‘optically brightened’ and the least visible, light green rather than clear line. When low visibility line is critical, such as in ultra-clear water, you can camouflage your line by using a brown or green marking pen and run narrow stripes across the line while it is still on the reel. This breaks up the cord-like appearance underwater.

How often should I replace my line?
This depends on how often and how hard you fish and how you take care of your line. Infrequent anglers may get away with replacing their line once a year at the beginning of the fishing season. Those who fish several times each week should change their line at least once a month. If you regularly fish around rock, wood, weed or any other kind of abrasive cover your line will have an even shorter life. Competitive anglers who fish the tournament trails and compete on divisional and national level usually replace their line before each important tournament. It helps to run the last three feet of line through your fingers regularly, especially after pulling a bass out of cover. If you feel any nicks or coarseness in the line, cut off the affected line and retie your lure. Your line is only as strong as its weakest point; a tiny nick could cut the line strength by half and cost you an important fish.

How should I take care of my line?
Sunlight weakens and gradually destroys nylon line. Normal fishing conditions shouldn’t cause too much harm but prolonged exposure to the sun in a boat or the back window of your vehicle will definitely weaken your line. I go as far as to cover my reels on the boat deck with a cloth when I am not using the rods and I have to leave my boat out in the sun for a while. Store your rods out of the sun in a cool, dry environment. The same goes for line on bulk spools. If you notice a chalky coating on your line it may be an indication that your line has started deteriorating. Consider changing it at your earliest convenience.

Which is the best way to re-spool my reel?
Changing line may not cost as much as you think because you seldom need to replace the entire spool with line. Generally you only need to replace the first 30 to 40 metres of line on your spool. To get the best casting performance possible it is extremely important to fill your reel’s spool properly. An under-filled spool results in short, inaccurate casts, poor drag performance and a decreased retrieve ratio. An over-filled spool causes the line to balloon off, causing backlashes and bird’s nests. On baitcasting and spinning reels it is imperative to only fill the spool until the line comes to within 2mm of the lip (edge) of the spool.

To avoid excess twist in the line whilst spooling up a BAITCASTING reel; put a pencil through the hole in the centre of the line spool and ask a friend to hold the pencil on either side of the spool. Now, reel in the line from the line spool onto your reel, with the line coming over the top of the line spool toward you.

To fill a SPINNING reel, have someone hold the line spool or place it in a bucket on the floor. Hold the rod tip 3 to 4 foot away from the spool and make 15 to 20 turns of the reel handle. Stop to check for line twist; if it is twisting badly turn the line spool over and wind the rest of the line onto the reel. Use the same procedure to fill a SPIN-CAST reel but remember to partially remove the reel cover so that you can check that you do not over- or under fill the spool.

READ MY NEXT ARTICLE: BASS TACKLE (Part 2) - THE RIGHT ROD FOR THE JOB

Article reproduced with permission from Stywe Lyne/Tight Lines Magazine.
Photos by Christie Thomas. All rights reserved.